Starz’ Gaslit is a new political thriller series about the untold stories of the Watergate scandal, starring Golden Globe winners Julia Roberts and Sean Penn.

Inspired by the first season of Slow Burn podcast by Leon Neyfakh and set in the 1970s, the show centers on Martha Mitchell (portrayed by Roberts), the wife of John Mitchell (played by Penn), the attorney general and confidant of President Richard Nixon.

Known as a flamboyant Washington D.C. celebrity, the Arkansas-born socialite Martha Mitchell was famous for daring behavior and late-night phone calls to the press that made for scandalous headlines.

For instance, Wikipedia mentions that Mitchell even refused to curtsy to Queen Elizabeth II at a garden party in July 1971, saying, “I feel that an American citizen should not bow to foreign monarchs”.

Being one of the most famous women in America at a time when there were only a few TV channels and a handful of nationally relevant newspapers and magazines, she was described by the New York Times as “the most talked about, talkative woman in Washington”.

The podcast that inspired the show says this about Mitchell’s legacy: “Psychologists talk about a phenomenon in which someone gets diagnosed as delusional or paranoid because they’re saying things that seem totally crazy and implausible – but then it turns out that they’re not crazy after all, and that what they’re saying is true. They call that phenomenon ‘The Martha Mitchell Effect.’”

Mitchell was also famous as a fashion icon, and her style was recreated for the show by costume designer Susie DeSanto.

The fashion of the 1970s was, generally speaking, a continuation of the late 1960s hippie style. On the other end of the spectrum, Mitchell always opted for the glamorous look. Reportedly, she said: “It’s part of the political situation. The hippies are tearing down the establishment and the designers are dressing down America.”

For the sake of accuracy, DeSanto worked closely with makeup artist Jean Black. Hair stylist Terrie Velazquez-Owen paired each of Robert’s outfits with bouffant shapes and curled wigs, just like Martha Mitchell wore in the early 1970s.

While DeSanto made a point of recreating some ensembles meticulously, the overall costume design strategy was based on an interpretation of what Martha Mitchell actually wore. She was known for wearing sumptuous apparel, fur coats, and bow-blouses; as well as over-accessorizing with cat-eye sunglasses, loads of jewelry, and lavish handbags.

Julia Roberts’ outfits mirror her character’s personality. Bold colors, embellished fabrics, and sophisticated patterns are typical of Martha Mitchell’s style, whether we speak of formal dresses, evening gowns or loungewear.

In one of her recent interviews, DeSanto mentioned that Roberts was very involved in the artistic aspect of costume design. “That’s my favorite thing, working with an actor like Julia. The clothes are so important to her in creating a character.”