How do you create sustainable fashion while also meeting the needs of clients like Golden Globe Winner Lady Gaga? If you are Ukrainian designer Lessja Verlingieri, owner of LEVER COUTURE, the challenge is not too great. “I love fabric,” she enthuses. “It’s inspiring. You can drape it in so many ways. But you can also destroy it and reinvent it.” You imagine a pause as she lets the idea settle. “You can make new fabric. You can combine different structures and shapes. Press, squeeze them, embroider.” The hand’s part at the range of reinventions. “There are so many possibilities. I love to use vintage fabrics from the 70s and 80s. Fabrics with history. They are so special and full of energy. You can feel the difference” in the garments, she adds. “With our couture, everything is made in-house. We only do one collection a year. I don’t throw fabrics out. I like to recycle them. You can do amazing things with old fabrics: re-think, restructure and give them new life.”

A new life is what Ms. Verlingieri achieved when she left Ukraine at age 11 and settled first in Germany, and then America. It’s not something she talks easily about. “There was a lot of hardship in the 90s in Ukraine and my mom wanted a better life for us.” 

“It is such a beautiful country with amazing people. The creativity I have is from my Ukrainian roots and the attention to detail is from my German environment. Now, with my new home in America, I feel a sense that anything is possible. The sky’s the limit. My body is in America, my soul in Germany, and my heart is in Ukraine!”

Her passion for the integral DNA roots fostering her creativity, allows her to share a private and emotional tale. “I remember my mum in the 90s, when the Berlin Wall fell. It was still dangerous. You couldn’t bring American things to Ukraine, especially symbols. My mum was traveling in Poland and an American guy gave her an American flag as a gift. She couldn’t bring it with her. She made it into a bag and embroidered the stars a little differently so she could bring it with her. This is a story very close to my heart. My Mom was an engineer, she was really creative with things. I remember her once making me a skirt out of ruffles, it was so special, it is one of my oldest and happiest memories.”

One cannot talk to a Ukrainian and not gently explore the impact of their country’s current duress. “I’m heartbroken, it’s a terrible situation for my family and friends. I feel helpless and sad every day. Our Ukrainian President Zelensky is so young and brave. I’m so proud of America and how the people care and support you. You feel less alone if you see how much people care. Every day, when I walk through the streets and see cars or houses with the Ukrainian flag, it brings a little smile to my face and gives me strength. America is not perfect, but it stands for freedom and hope. It feels like anything is possible.”

Indeed, her story is like a fairy tale, albeit one that grew from hard work and talent. “My passion already started when I was a child. My Grandmother gave me a small piece of fabric when I was around 9 years old – a colorful pallet of satins. I was fascinated by them. My cousins and I tried to experiment with them. When I was 16, my mom gave me my first sewing machine. I began sewing dresses and skirts for myself and my friends.”

That led to LEVER COUTURE’s first show at the Berlin Fashion Week more than a decade ago. “Right after, Nicola Formichetti emailed me with the first request for Lady Gaga,” she shares with a soft laugh. “I thought it was a joke. I couldn’t believe it.” But it was true, and that opportunity opened the door for all the other incredible stars and clients – the partial list which includes: Beyoncé, Jlo, Lady Gaga, Alicia keys, Gwen Stefani, Megan Thee Stallion.

“I want to explore more opportunities within the film industry and I am interested in exploring more digital opportunities. I work a lot with Creative Director, Jenny Williams. She is constantly looking for new ways to grow and push boundaries with creativity. She recently worked with me on a digital art collaboration for Numéro Berlin magazine, which will release next month. We worked together with Digital Nation Entertainment, which is an amazing immersive content studio combining state-of-the-art AR/VR/MR technologies.” 

When not innovating in the digital sphere, she is designing her collection. Which, she admits, is created with timeless style in mind. “If you look at them in 10-20 years, you still see the beauty. You can’t tell the time period they are made in.” Her love for experimentation is not a whim. She has a clear goal in mind. “I want to do something extraordinary and push boundaries.”

Given that every designer has to cater to the non-celeb and stars alike, I wonder how she meets both needs? “With superstars it’s a bit more complex to design. There is pressure on the piece to be beautiful, functional, and comfortable. The first thing I do is research which colors and silhouettes would work with the body type and the research fabrics. I like to create pieces that flatter each client with their individuality. I start with the sketch – usually I’ll make a few, so there is something to pick from. After that, we start to transform the vision into reality. This is where the magic begins. I’m more of an instinctive person. If it doesn’t feel right, I leave it and drape it in a new way.”

She admits that recent times have been plagued with challenges. During the pandemic, a show just didn’t seem possible. “But we decided to try. I am so glad we did. Irene Albright has supported the brand since we moved to LA from Berlin. She offered us their space in support, which was incredible. Then, when Nicola Formichetti offered to support the show, we knew it was going to be special. It was an amazing experience to be able to host my first US presentation with the support of so many great people.” At this point, beaming with a timeless spark of confidence in her voice, she adds: “We hosted the show the week before NY Fashion Week. I would like to be able to do this annually in LA.”